Sakurajima

Sakurajima

Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Sakura - Cherry blossom

Buds are opening and the soft pink flowers are emerging to view sunshine and begin the elemental stages of flowerhood. Starbucks is selling cherry blossom cheese cake, which tastes like a floral cherry but the leaves are quite salty and bitter.

You wonder why it is that in London you never enter a Starbucks but the moment you’re in Japan, Starbucks is the closest haven. It abates homesickness comes the murmur. Or maybe it’s just because it’s the only place you can buy a dark mocha frappachino or a chai soy latte around here. Street sellers are vending sakura mochi- cherry blossom rice sweet cake with sweet red bean paste in the middle, wrapped in a cherry tree leaf. It’s delicious. 

The other day I had a bento with cherry blossom sushi.

Spring is bringing changes in other areas too. The new school year will begin next week. The students are enjoying the interim 6 day holiday (contrary to our 6 week summer holiday in the UK). Teachers have to go to school. Some things seem arbitrary and random. My supervisor and I are moving desks- to the desks opposite where we already are. I’m used to not receiving explanations so I’ve been packing up all my books, years of ex-ALT’s bits and bobs and stationery ready for the big shift. Maybe it’s just the best way of ensuring teachers clean their desks out thoroughly and throw away old papers.

My favourite teacher is leaving. Teachers have less than a week between being told they will be going to a new school and moving house. The government provides housing for teachers if they need it. Today I will help Morimitsu move house. Luckily her husband, who is also a teacher, will be moving to Izumi as well. Izumi is a spread out city two hours north of Kagoshima.

I just got back from helping Morimitsu clear belongings from her house. If there was ever a stereotype about Japanese living minimally, I can denounce it. I removed more boxes than seemed possible to fit into the traditional-style flat. I will miss her at school. I admire her because she is always so calm and relaxed. She is a good teacher but she never stresses about lessons or lets anything make her uptight. Even moving, she didn’t look remotely anxious or lose her light and smiley air. We once talked about her husband. She said, ‘I married him because he asked me’.

My friend Mamiko, who is an English teacher at a Junior High School, told me some teachers at her school were crying because they’re moving to tiny wee islands near Okinawa and probably won’t meet a girl/boyfriend or husband/wife for another 3-5 years. Out of a population of maybe 75, about 3 will be between the ages of 14 and 65. My supervisor told me a few years ago she had been given an island placement away from her family. But she kicked up such an ‘un-Japanese’ fuss that they eventually gave her a mainland school instead.

The Japanese tendency is to take what you’re given boldly and not react. You can see this when you’re in an onsen and when the women get into the water that is either burningly hot or frightfully cold, they sit in the water as though it was perfectly lukewarm, with a placid countenance until you notice their fists are fiercely clenched.

Recently the man I tutor told me that my expressions when I speak are so funny. Of course, not all can be attributed to being British (I’ll keep a few as my own), but it led to an interesting conversation about how physical communication is just so different. In fact the Japanese are not such verbal communicators as we are. If actually voicing something can be avoided, it generally is, and replaced by incredibly subtle gestures.

We take so much for granted, that a particular way of reacting is somehow a generic ‘human’ response, but actually there may be no such thing. A friend of mine went to the doctors a few days after arriving in Japan. He needed medication immediately since he couldn’t bring his supply from the UK. When he told the doctor about his troubled medical history, the doctor began to laugh. Although in the UK this might be perceived as incredibly rude, laughter is often used here to ease discomfort.

I’ve never had to review my own culture so much before. My American friends laugh at my use of English. Bridget says many words seem ‘old fashioned’ and not very modern. I guess it just challenges how we maybe occasionally perceive many ‘modern’ American adaptations as sounding ‘uneducated’. The constant rebuffs of different Englishes become really tiring after a while. I wish sometimes two different uses of the language could go said without someone commenting on them. I never felt I had pride of British English, but I never expected to feel so discriminated against for my ‘weird’, ‘funny’ and ‘strange’ way of speaking. It amazes me somehow that English, a language from England, can be seen as somehow so ‘un-English’. It’s regarded as second-rate by many of the world’s language-learners. Now we remain laughed at on our tiny island for our quaint archaic use of the language.

Language is an interesting thing in carving our perceptions of the world. In the BBC Human Planet Series (a must-watch), I saw that Mongolian wranglers have over 300 words to describe the different shades of their horses. In Japanese there aren’t different words for ‘leg’ or ‘foot’, both are ‘ashi’ 脚.

My Japanese language ability is moving along slowly. It’s happening (or not happening) in much the same way as the average Japanese learning English. By this I mean, learning how to read and write way beyond any kind of communication ability. For my next Japanese test (I’ve had 4 so far), I’m learning sentences such as:

Although you could say the price is high, it’s 100,000 yen. It’s cheap for a computer.

Nedan ga takai to ittemo 10 man-en desu yo. Pasokon no naka de wa yasui desu yo. 

ねだんがたかいといっても10まんーえんですよパソコンのなかでわやすいですよ。

But I’m still struggling with basic communication with cashiers or ticket conductors. Every now and then there’s a moment of triumph when you suddenly realize that the 3-minute conversation you just had with someone was all in Japanese, or even better a joke was passed.

A while back, Kajiya sensei leant me his kids’ Japanese books. I was learning Japanese with Anpanman, a popular cartoon character and his friends, like ichigochan (strawberry-girl).



Anpan-man is a pancake. He’s very brave and generous because when people are hungry he gives them pancakes. A few days ago Mr. Kajiya gave me a small present- it was a stuffed Anpan man!

I’ve been spending more time with my Japanese friends recently. I shared a Guinness on St. Patrick’s Day with Mamiko and Ayako, and we met again on Monday to eat at my favourite restaurant here- yes it’s Indian food, the British national favourite. Ayako is going to Tokyo soon to study medicine (bright cookie), but on the up-side, Hiroko, who teaches English on Io-jima island is moving to Kagoshima city.

Io-jima

In January I was sent on my first ‘business trip’, to Io-jima Island for a week. It was four hours into the Higashi Shina Kai (The East China Sea) by ferry. I’d never been to such a tiny, un-touristy island. It’s known informally as Peacock Island; a hotel resort was built here but it went bust and all the peacocks from the resort now roam wildly over the rocky landscape. I stayed in the guesthouse next to the only school, a mixed elementary and Junior High School. There are only 22 children on the whole island.

It was a touching experience. All the kids wanted to speak to me and have lessons with me. We played baseball and tag at lunchtime, cleaned the school quite animatedly and after school we went around the island collecting everyone’s recycling. I felt very included. It’s so nice how all the islanders get involved in the community. When a ferry comes in, the townspeople help unload the cargo for the local shop. I played volleyball with the teachers in the evening. They keep a quite-serious ongoing tally. Since it was my first time, I was conscious of being feeble.

I didn’t speak to Hiroko much on the first day, I guess we were both shy and there was quite a lot to do. When we finally spoke in Japanglish we found out we were the same age, and she teaches Japanese Literature whilst I studied English literature. She taught me a haiku.

On the last evening we explored the island. I saw the outdoor rock pool onsen, which had a hot and steaming natural waterfall dropping into the sea. We also went to the hill-top to view the volcano, by now a strong wind had come and mist was forming around the top. After, we went to the local indoor onsen, which was free on Wednesdays. Hiroko explained that there were no young people on the island. As we talked, there was quite a surreal feeling of absorbing and assuaging each other’s loneliness. We were sad to say goodbye.




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Monday, 21 March 2011

The Sense of Wonder

Today I led a lesson based on Rachel Carson's book, The Sense of Wonder. She writes:

'A child's world is fresh and new and beautiful, full of wonder and excitement. It is our misfortune that for most of us this true instinct for what is beautiful and awe-inspiring around us gets dimmed and even lost as we grow into adulthood. If I had a special influence with a good fairy who serves to protect all children, I would love to ask that her gift to each child be a sense of wonder so indestructible that it would never stop working throughout life. It would act, I also wish, as an effective antidote against the inevitable boredom and disenchantments of later years...'

Sometimes it is this sense of wonder, the immense excitement and awe that children experience quite frequently, that makes me want to travel. Of course this sense can be achieved by walking in local woods or hills, or looking at the night's sky. But the sense of wonder created by travel experiences, seeing new lands, viewing nature in its many forms and taking part in the customs of various peoples, is a much more addictive kind of wonder.

Earthquake

Today the first news of a death on the JET programme reached us.

You're stomach turns to jelly as you realise how randomly our placements were chosen for this programme.

The article explains that she was fittingly last seen helping children rejoin with their parents after the earthquake first hit.


Although we are far from the devastation down here, it's sad to be in Japan at a time when the the whole country is in mourning and emotions are high.

It is difficult to watch all that is happening on the news and be so helpless. Last week we went to give blood and discovered that sadly British people cannot give blood in Japan. On Wednesday my friend Kat organised a 'Kiwi Film night' to raise money. JETs and Japanese friends watched 'Boy', which charmingly portrays a young Maori boy who reunites with his wayward father


The money was divided between the Christchurch appeal and the Japanese Red Cross.